October 8th 1999 was a great birding day. I didn't want it to end. It was my first ever day on the famous Scilly Isles and I saw a bunch of lifers to boot. The day began early in the morning as Mark, Jenny and I arose at dark o'clock to make our morning flight from St Just in Cornwall to St Mary's, the largest of the Scilly Isles. Mark had arranged for us to stay at Watermill Cottage on the NE end of the island. We were justifiably psyched for the trip because several mega's had already been found on the islands, all of which were British lifers for us all.
Our small prop plane landed, we jumped off, grabbed our bags and acquired a taxi to take us to Watermill. Taxi drivers are well accustomed to twitching twitchers, and it didn't take us long to get there. Mark and I jumped out of the minivan, threw our bags in the front garden (much to Jenny's annoyance) and ran off up the road, heading for Green Farm. The lane, and then track, that ran by the farm afforded us a view of the Great Ganilly area. Great Ganilly is basically a bunch of large limestone rocks sitting off one of the other islands. Bryher I think. The bird we were seeking was Britain's first accepted Short-toed Eagle. A fairly widespread bird in the southern half of mainland Europe, but a mega in Blighty! The bird obliged and was seen flying around being tailed and mobbed by corvids, mostly Ravens. Lifer # 1 in the bag and it wasn't even 9am yet!
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| scanned from my notebook. |
From there it was a mad dash back to the cottage and another taxi down to the quay for a boat ride. The boat took us over to St. Agnes, one of the smaller but birdiest of the island chain. Two siberian species were our targets; a White's Thrush on St Agnes, and a Siberian Thrush on Gugh, which is connected to St Agnes by a tidal sand bar. Siberian Thrush was the rarer of the two, so we headed there and no sooner had we arrived the bird appeared, in flight, right on cue! Serendipitous, or what? It was like a blueberry with wings and stripes! We watched it in flight several times and even saw it perched, very briefly but very well. A crippling bird and one I'll never forget. Sibe's Thrushes don't show up in Britain that often, and when they do they typically show up in far off places that are logistically difficult to reach on the day they're found. Most of the time these birds don't hang around for more than a day, so having the opportunity to twitch one might be a once in a lifetime deal. This deal was sewn up before lunchtime.

Seeing the White's Thrush was not nearly as easy, and given the location where it was frequenting and the number of birders present (hundreds to a thousand) that shouldn't be so surprising. A secretive bird by nature, in an area not easily accessible for birding. We basically formed rank and file along a narrow lane, and looked longingly into a field surrounded on all sides by thick, tall hedgerows. The bird came out on the edge of the field but just as it did, this total utter wanker stepped right in front of me. It was worse than standing on the Kop at Anfield as Ian Rush raced in on goal! I managed to see the birds rear end as it hopped back into the hedgerow and that was the only look I got during our 8 day stay. It became more obliging in the evenings, but despite trying the bird never did give me conclusive and tickable views. One day I'll reconnect with the other two-thirds of a White's Thrush, so I can count it for my list!
Compensation came in the form of a Radde's Warbler, another Siberian species. Fantastic views were had and at short range. It would be the first of four I'd eventually see that week. A Red-breasted Flycatcher also showed well on St Agnes, padding the list nicely.
St Mary's Airfield was next, and our first American species of the trip, an Upland Sandpiper. Ridiculously close views were obtained, as it fed in complete oblivion in front of a large admiring crowd. Lifer # 4 of the day. A short walk took us to a Short-toed Lark, another Continental European species. It showed very well at close range also. My fifth and final British lifer of an incredible day.
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| taken from google images |
The rest our trip just kept getting better and better! October 1999, will long be remembered as one of the best rare bird autumns, the Isles of Scilly had ever witnessed. Yellow-billed Cuckoo, a second Upland Sandpiper, Black-crowned Night Heron, Tawny Pipit, Veery (Day twitched to Cornwall), Blue Rock Thrush, 3 more Radde's Warblers (I found one), Richard's Pipit, Yellow-browed Warbler, Red-backed Shrike and a Wryneck were the highlights. We also had 4 Monarch butterfly's! In Cornwall, on my way back to college, I saw Chimney Swift and a Red-flanked Bluetail. It was probably the best 10 days of birding I've ever had in Britain and it all started on October 8th.
The Isles of Scilly are a very special place and probably my dream place to live. The scenery, the birding, the friendly atmosphere and the pasties all combine to make it one of those places you'll never forget you have been. Can't wait to return there one day.
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| St Mary's Harbor taken from google images |